The third presentation at the Fall 2011 American Nutriceutical
Conference was by Dr. Silke DeSpirt of the Institute of Biochemistry and Molecular Biology, Heinrich-Heine-University Dusseldorf. Her presentation was entitled “can nutrients modulate skin properties?”
Synopsis: Through a series of studies, Dr. DeSpirt and her colleagues have demonstrated that nutrients can influence the skin’s protection, improve the microcirculation, and influence the properties and appearance of the skin. It demonstrates that simple lifestyle modifications in diet can improve the health and appearance of our skin. Healthy skin means a healthy body.
The skin is the largest organ in the body. It acts as a barrier to protect against infection and fluid loss. There are three levels in the skin, the subcutis, dermis, and epidermis. Nutrition and nutrients are very important for skin health.
Healthy skin is dependent on several factors including water, lipids/essential fatty acids, carbohydrates, proteins, minerals, vitamins and phytonutrients. The research presented by Dr DeSpirt looked the effects of lipids and nutrients on several parameters of skin health.
First, what causes skin aging? This is a multifactorial process that is affected by sex, our biological clock, genes, illness and the environment. Factors that cause increased skin aging include sun exposure, smoking, poor nutrition, and air pollution.
Sun damage is caused by ultraviolet (UV) light. There are two forms of UV light, UV-A and UV-B. A third type, UV-C, is filtered by the ozone and does not reach the earth surface. Both UV-A and UV-B contribute to tanning of the skin, but the UV-B is associated with sun burns. UV-B penetrates only into the epidermis while UV-A penetrates deeper into the dermis. UV-A was once thought to offer a safe, burn free skin tan, but this is not true. UV-A penetrates deeply into the dermis and leads to an increased risk of melanoma. Sun blocking agents need to block both UV-A and UV-B to offer protection against burning, skin damage and malignancy.
Ultraviolet light causes many changes in the skin. The UV light causes the formation of reactive oxygen species which oxidizes and damages proteins, lipids, and DNA. This leads to breakdown of the skin, the collagen, the lipid matrix which offers barrier protection and leads to DNA mutations and cancer. UV light has been found to damage DNA by causing strand breaks, thymine cross-links, and mutation of the p53 tumor suppressor gene. This causes not only DNA damage and mutations but an inability of the DNA to be repaired.
The skin has an active antioxidant network to combat the oxidation produced by the sun. These include enzymes (SOD, catalase, peroxidase, heme-oxygenase), glutathione, vitamins, carotenoids, flavonoids. The antioxidant systems work to scavenge reactive oxygen species and prevent damage. As with any system in the body, good nutrition is vital to the system working properly.
How are nutrients delivered to the skin? The microcirculation delivers nutrients into the dermis. The epidermis is supplied through passive diffusion. One can deliver topical nutrition to the skin but these agents do not penetrate to the deeper levels of the skin. The best way to deliver nutrition would be from the inside out.
The clinical markers of skin health used in Dr. DeSpirt’s studies include: Skin surface evaluation, skin hydration (transepidermal water loss), Ultrasonic B-scan of the epidermis and dermis (skin thickness), microcirculation, and photoprotection using irradiation. Healthy skin will be well hydrated, thick, have an active microcirculation and the appearance will be smooth and without scaling. The following studies evaluated the effects of nutrients (anti-oxidants and flavonols) and lipids on a variety of these healthy skin parameters.
Study 1: This is a photoprotection study in two parts. Part one compared the effects of 12 weeks of tomato based or pure lycopene supplementation on the redness produced by a dose of radiation to the skin. A dose of irradiation sufficient to produce minimal redness (1.25 minimal erythema dose) was given to subjects. The second part of the study compared 12 weeks of green tea extract to cocoa-polyphenol drinks. The same 1.25 MED of radiation was given. (Aust et. al. J Vit Nutr Res 2005;75:54, Heinrich et. al. J. Nutr 2006;136:1565-1569)
Findings: Both supplements improved photoprotection of the skin. The tomato based supplement was slightly better; 38% improvement of erythema vs. lycopene (26% improvement). The second part also demonstrated improvement with both supplements. Green tea improved redness by 25% and cocoa by 69%. The SPF value of these supplements is estimated to be 2. Compare that to sunblock lotions with an SPF of 30 or more. These supplements are not a good substitute for sun block.
Study 2: This is a skin sensitivity study using nicotinate which irritates the skin and causes inflammation and redness. This study evaluated the effects of 12 weeks supplementation of flaxseed or Borrageseed oils. Both contain a mix of omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acids which are both necessary for a healthy lipid barrier level in the skin. (DeSpirt et. al. BJN 2009;101:440-445)
Findings: Both lipid supplements were found to protect the skin against the nicotinate irritation. Flaxseed decreased sensitivity by 45% and borage seed by 35%.
Study 3: This is a skin hydration study as measured by electric capacity. Again subjects were given 12 weeks of supplementation with either flaxseed or borage seed oils. Level of hydration and appearance of the skin were measured. (DeSpirt et al. BJN 2009;101:440-445)
Findings: Flaxseed improved hydration by 19% and borage seed by 17%. Roughness and scaling were also decreased by 35% and 28% respectively.
Study4: This study looked at the effects of 12 weeks supplementation of an encapsulated fruit and vegetable powder on microcirculation, hydration, and skin texture. Subjects were given either placebo or a fruit and vegetable powder for the study period. Laser Doppler was used to assess the microcirculation. Ultrasound was used to assess skin thickness. (DeSpirt et. al. Skin Pharmacol Physiol 2012;25:2-8)
Findings: The fruit and vegetable powder was found to improve blood flow by 39%, and oxygen saturation by 16% compared to placebo. Additional studies showed an improvement in skin thickness and density and thickness by 16%. Hydration was minimally improved by 9%. The issue here may be that only 7 of the 26 subjects had dry skin. There may have been more benefit demonstrated if more subjects had dry skin.
Study 5: This study looked at the effects of 12 weeks supplementation of green tea’s effect on microcirculation, hydration, and skin texture. (Heinrich et. al. J. Nutr 2011;141:1202-1208)
Findings: Green tea, improved blood flow 29%, oxygen sat 34%, density 7.7%, hydration 17%, and improved roughness 16%.
Study 6: This study evaluated the effects of 12 weeks of cocoa flavonols on microcirculation, density, thickness, hydration and appearance of the skin. (Heinrich et. al. J Nutr 2006;136:1565-1569)
Findings: Cocoa improved blood flow 100%, density and thickness 17/18%, hydration 13%, and improved roughness and scaling 30%/43%.
With this series of studies, Dr. DeSpirt and her colleagues have demonstrated that nutrients can influence the skin’s protection, improve the microcirculation, and influence the properties and appearance of the skin. It demonstrates that simple lifestyle modifications in diet can improve the health and appearance of our skin. Healthy skin means a healthy body.
More reading:
American Nutriceutical Society: www.ana-jana.org
This article compares two groups of African Americans; Seventh Day Adventists, who encourage vegetarian diet and abstinence from alcohol, and a non-Adventist African American group. They found in their comparison, that the vegetarian group had a 70% less chance of developing diabetes if they were strict vegans and a 53% less chance if they ate dairy and eggs. Although this is not a therapeutic trial, it does argue that our lifestyle is creating the current epidemic of metabolic syndrome, diabetes, high blood pressure and heart disease. These diseases cause a significant amount of disability in this population and puts a strain on our already stressed medical system. If only we could convince people how important it is to eat right and exercise. http://www.medicalnewstoday.com/releases/237160.php
